Consumer Perceptions of Recycled Cotton Fabric in Support of Advancing SDG 12: A Developing Economy Perspective
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.51137/wrp.ijsbe.618Keywords:
Consumer Perceptions, Developing Economy, Recycled Cotton, Sustainable Development Goal 12, Sustainable FashionAbstract
Developing economy’s fashion industry continues to grow with a balance of environmental responsibility and creative expression; however, fast-fashion practices hinder the progress toward circular production systems. Within this context, recycled cotton emerges as a viable solution to reduce textile waste and advance Sustainable Development Goal 12 (SDG 12): Responsible Consumption and Production. However, consumer perceptions and understanding of recycled cotton and the process of influencing its sustainable adoption remains limited. This study explored how individuals perceive recycled cotton fabric and the extent to which their perceptions support sustainable consumption behaviour. This study adopted the Value-Belief-Norm (VBN) theory and the Theory of Planned Behaviour (TPB) as the theoretical framework. An exploratory research design was applied with an interpretivist philosophical standpoint. A qualitative research approach was adopted, while data was collected from twenty-four (24) purposively selected participants, comprising of postgraduate students (16) and educators (8) from South Africa. An interview guide was used to collect data through semi-structured interviews. Thematic analysis using Atlas.TI identified several key themes, namely: reduction in pollution, avoiding landfills, promoting circularity, rejection of fast fashion, education, trust, variability and cost implications of slow fashion. The results indicate that participants' perceptions about recycled cotton fabric are anchored on environmental textile benefits, knowledge shaping sustainability choices, trust, variability and cost implications as barriers for utilising recycled cotton fabric. The study concludes with applicable recommendations and future study directions.
References
Acquaye, R., Seidu, R. K., Eghan, B., & Fobiri, G. K. (2023). Consumer attitude and disposal behaviour to second-hand clothing in Ghana. Scientific African, 21, e01887. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.sciaf.2023.e01887
Agarwal, P., Ismail, F., & Mkhabela, V. (2023). AfCFTA and rules of origin for the textile and apparel industry in Africa. Overseas Development Institute.
Ahmad, N., Alias, F. A., & Razak, A. A. (2023). UNDERSTANDING POPULATION AND SAMPLE IN RESEARCH: KEY CONCEPTS FOR VALID CONCLUSIONS. E-Learning, 6, 19–24.
Aithal, P. S., Maiya, A. K., Aithal, S., & M. D., P. (2022). Atomic Research Centres to Intensify Research – An Innovative Approach of Srinivas University, India (SSRN Scholarly Paper No. 4183722). Social Science Research Network. https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.4183722
Al Mamun, A., Hayat, N., Masud, M. M., Makhbul, Z. K. M., Jannat, T., & Salleh, M. F. Md. (2022). Modelling the Significance of Value-Belief-Norm Theory in Predicting Solid Waste Management Intention and Behavior. Frontiers in Environmental Science, 10, 906002. https://doi.org/10.3389/fenvs.2022.906002
Alashiq, S., & Aljuhmani, H. Y. (2025). From Sustainable Tourism to Social Engagement: A Value-Belief-Norm Approach to the Roles of Environmental Knowledge, Eco-Destination Image, and Biospheric Value. Sustainability, 17(10), 4353. https://doi.org/10.3390/su17104353
Alcantara, S., Moore, F., & Ontaneda, M. (2024). A Systematic Review of Recycled Cotton Fibre Blending Practices, Challenges and Recommendations. Textile & Leather Review, 7, 153–175. https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2023.184
Alharahsheh, H. H., & Pius, A. (2020). A Review of key paradigms: Positivism VS interpretivism. 2.
Andreadakis, S., & Owusu-Wiredu, P. (2023). Fashion Footprint: How Clothes Are Destroying Our Planet and the Growing Impacts of Fast Fashion | IntechOpen [Intechopen.com]. https://www.intechopen.com/chapters/1144940
Arafat, Y., & Uddin, A. J. (2022). Recycled fibers from pre- and post-consumer textile waste as blend constituents in manufacturing 100% cotton yarns in ring spinning: A sustainable and eco-friendly approach. Heliyon, 8(11). https://doi.org/10.1016/j.heliyon.2022.e11275
Arias, A., Quiroga Beltrán, C., Martínez Ariza, D., Cadena Lozano, A., & Bello Bernal, D. (2022). Values and eco-fashion purchasing in Latin America. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 46(3), 885–899.
Bailey, K., Basu, A., & Sharma, S. (2022). The Environmental Impacts of Fast Fashion on Water Quality: A Systematic Review. Water, 14(7), 1073. https://doi.org/10.3390/w14071073
Banytė, J., Vaidelinskaitė, Š., & Šalčiuvienė, L. (2023). Investigating the Link between Consumer Attitudes and Behaviour in the Context of Sustainable Clothing: The Role of Social Norms. Sustainability, 15(24), 16800. https://doi.org/10.3390/su152416800
Batool, N., Wani, M. D., Shah, S. A., & Dada, Z. A. (2024). Theory of planned behavior and value-belief norm theory as antecedents of pro-environmental behaviour: Evidence from the local community. Journal of Human Behavior in the Social Environment, 34(5), 693–709. https://doi.org/10.1080/10911359.2023.2205912
Bearman, M. (2019). Eliciting rich data: A practical approach to writing semi-structured interview schedules. Focus on Health Professional Education: A Multi-Professional Journal, 20(3), 1–11. https://doi.org/10.3316/informit.002757698372666
Boykoff, M., Mbewe, C., Simatele, M., & Kalumba, A. (2021). Fashion, waste and policy in Rwanda: Banning second-hand imports. Environment and Planning: Politics and Space, 39(7), 1485–1502.
Braun, V. & Clarke, V. (2006). Using thematic analysis in psychology. Qualitative Research in Psychology, 3(2), 77-101.
Casteel, A., & Bridier, N. L. (2021). DESCRIBING POPULATIONS AND SAMPLES IN DOCTORAL STUDENT RESEARCH. International Journal of Doctoral Studies, 16(1), 339. https://doi.org/10.28945/4766
Castellano, R., De Bernardo, G., & Punzo, G. (2024). Sustainable Well-Being and Sustainable Consumption and Production: An Efficiency Analysis of Sustainable Development Goal 12. Sustainability, 16(17), 7535. https://doi.org/10.3390/su16177535
Creswell, J. W., & Creswell, J. D. (2017). Research Design: Qualitative, Quantitative, and Mixed Methods Approaches. SAGE Publications.
Creswell, J. W., & Poth, C. N. (2016). Qualitative Inquiry and Research Design: Choosing Among Five Approaches. SAGE Publications.
Dalampira, E. S., & Nastis, S. A. (2020). Back to the future: Simplifying Sustainable Development Goals based on three pillars of sustainability. International Journal of Sustainable Agricultural Management and Informatics, 6(3), 226. https://doi.org/10.1504/IJSAMI.2020.112089
DeJonckheere, M., & Vaughn, L. M. (2019). Semistructured interviewing in primary care research: A balance of relationship and rigour. Family Medicine and Community Health, 7(2), e000057. https://doi.org/10.1136/fmch-2018-000057
Department of Forestry, Fisheries, and the Environment. (2024). Extended Producer Responsibility for the Textile Sector: Implementation Progress Report. Government of South Africa. https://www.dffe.gov.za/sites/default/files/docs/epr_textile_report2024.pdf
Dixit, A., & Chaudhary, R. (2020). Sustainability: An Essential Concept for Current and Upcoming Technological Practices. IOP Conference Series: Materials Science and Engineering, 804(1), 012023. https://doi.org/10.1088/1757-899X/804/1/012023
Du Plooy-Cilliers, F., Davis, C., & Bezuidenhout, R. (2021). Research matters (3rd edn). Juta Publishers.
ENSafrica. (2024). Textiles and recycling in South Africa: Legal and policy overview. https://www.ensafrica.com/news/textiles-recycling
European Environment Agency. (2022). Textiles and the environment in a circular economy. https://www.eea.europa.eu/textiles-circular-economy
Fletcher, K., & Fitzpatrick, A. (2024). Decentering Durability: Decarbonizing and Decolonizing Ideas and Practices of Long-Lasting Clothes. Fashion Theory, 28(7), 1015–1041. https://doi.org/10.1080/1362704X.2024.2427493
Fletcher, & Tham. (2019). Earthlogic. info/.https://earthlogic.info/
Flick, U. (2022). An Introduction to Qualitative Research. 1–100. https://www.torrossa.com/en/resources/an/5409482
Foroozesh, S. (2021). Sustainability in the fashion industry: Avoiding communication landmines. Sustainability in the Fashion Industry: Avoiding Communication Landmines. https://www.forbes.com/councils/forbesbusinesscouncil/2021/07/13/sustainability-in-the-fashion-industry-avoiding-communication-landmines/
Gojic, A., & Bukhonka, N. (2023). Recycled Textile Fibers and Materials – Current State and Development Perspectives. ICPAE 2023, 95–100.
Govender, D., Govender, T., & Whyte, C. (2023). 2023 Market Study of the Circular (& Waste) Economy of South Africa (Prepared for the Netherlands Enterprise Agency). https://www.rvo.nl/sites/default/files/2023-10/SA-Circular-Economy-Opportunities.pdf
Grant, C., & Osanloo, A. (2014). UNDERSTANDING, SELECTING, AND INTEGRATING A THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK IN DISSERTATION RESEARCH: CREATING THE BLUEPRINT FOR YOUR “HOUSE”. Administrative Issues Journal, 4(2). https://dc.swosu.edu/aij/vol4/iss2/4
Green Cape. (2023). Threading the loop: Textile recycling and fibre recovery – industry brief. https://greencape.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/Textile-recycling-and-fibre-recovery_industry_brief.pdf
Guest, G., Bunce, A., & Johnson, L. (2006). How Many Interviews Are Enough?: An Experiment with Data Saturation and Variability. Field Methods, 18(1), 59–82. https://doi.org/10.1177/1525822X05279903
Hong, S., Lin, Y., & Wang, H. (2024). The Roles of Environmental Attitudes and Personal Responsibility in Green Consumption: An Application of the VBN Model. Journal of Sustainability Research, 6(1), 22–39.
Hong, Y., Al Mamun, A., Yang, Q., & Masukujjaman, M. (2024). Predicting sustainable fashion consumption intentions and practices. Scientific Reports, 14(1), 1706. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-024-52215-z
Jacobs, J., Petersen, R., & Ramlal, P. (2020). Fashion and the self: Emotional and cultural factors in sustainable choices. South African Fashion Research Journal, 12(3), 78–92.
Jha, A. (2018). 16. United Nations General Assembly (UNGA). Yearbook of International Environmental Law, 29, 469–476. https://doi.org/10.1093/yiel/yvz039
Joy, A., Roberts, J., Grohmann, B., & Peña, C. (2023). Confronting climate crisis through corporate narratives: The fairy tale in LVMH’s 2020 and 2021 social and environmental responsibility reports. Luxury, 10(1–2), 81–118. https://doi.org/10.1080/20511817.2023.2280321
Joyram, P. (2022). Sustainability Frameworks in Global Fashion. Juta Publishers.
Juanga-Labayen, J. P., Labayen, I. V., & Yuan, Q. (2022). A Review on Textile Recycling Practices and Challenges. Textiles, 2(1), 174–188. https://doi.org/10.3390/textiles2010010
Khanam, A., & Nabi, M. K. (2025). The power of green WOM in spreading awareness of green products: A mediation analysis. Management & Sustainability, An Arab Review, 1–20. https://doi.org/10.1108/MSAR-03-2025-0083
Kim, I., Jung, H. J., & Lee, Y. (2021). Consumers’ Value and Risk Perceptions of Circular Fashion: Comparison between Secondhand, Upcycled, and Recycled Clothing. Sustainability, 13(3), 1208. https://doi.org/10.3390/su13031208
Kumar, B., Prakash, G., & Yadav, R. (2021). Sustainable consumption behaviour and its determinants in emerging markets. Journal of Cleaner Production, 281(3), 124713.
Lincoln, Y. S., & Guba, E. G. (1985). Naturalistic inquiry. Sage Publications.
Magwegwe, F. M., & Shaik, A. (2024). Theory of planned behavior and fast fashion purchasing: An analysis of interaction effects. Current Psychology, 43(36), 28868–28885. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12144-024-06465-9
Maiti, R. (2025). Fast fashion and its environmental impact in 2025. Earth.Org. https://earth.org/fast-fashions-detrimental-effect-on-the-environment/
Mandarić, D., Hunjet, A., & Vuković, D. (2022). The Impact of Fashion Brand Sustainability on Consumer Purchasing Decisions. Journal of Risk and Financial Management, 15(4), 176. https://doi.org/10.3390/jrfm15040176
McLeod, S. (2024). Thematic Analysis: A Step by Step Guide. https://www.simplypsychology.org/thematic-analysis.html
McNeill, L., & Venter, N. (2019). The sustainability gap: Intentions vs behaviour in fashion consumption. Sustainability, 11(12), 3409.
Medapati, M. J., & Mohan, D. V. K. (2025). Purchase Behaviour of Gen-Z in Green Markets—A Study with Reference to Consumers of Greater Visakhapatnam City (SSRN Scholarly Paper No. 5339825). Social Science Research Network. https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.5339825
Mensah, J. (2019). Sustainable development: Meaning, history, principles, pillars, and implications for human action: Literature review. Cogent Social Sciences, 5(1), 1653531. https://doi.org/10.1080/23311886.2019.1653531
Monyaki, N. C., & Cilliers, R. (2023). Defining Drivers and Barriers of Sustainable Fashion Manufacturing: Perceptions in the Global South. Sustainability, 15(13), 10715. https://doi.org/10.3390/su151310715
Naeem, M., Ozuem, W., Howell, K., & Ranfagni, S. (2023). A Step-by-Step Process of Thematic Analysis to Develop a Conceptual Model in Qualitative Research. International Journal of Qualitative Methods, 22, 16094069231205789. https://doi.org/10.1177/16094069231205789
Nowell, L. S., Norris, J. M., White, D. E., & Moules, N. J. (2017). Thematic Analysis: Striving to Meet the Trustworthiness Criteria. International Journal of Qualitative Methods, 16(1), 1609406917733847. https://doi.org/10.1177/1609406917733847
Nxtile. (2024). Recycling of pre- and post-consumer cotton. https://nxtile.eu/recycling-of-pre-and-post-consumer-cotton/
Palinkas, L. A. (2020). Global Climate Change, Population Displacement, and Public Health: The Next Wave of Migration. Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-41890-8
Patel, A. K., Sharma, A. K., Seema, K., Kumar, A., Boipai, M., Guria, R. T., Sahu, U. P., & Kumar, M. (2024). Navigating herpes simplex encephalitis: Family medicine perspectives from Jharkhand, India. Journal of Family Medicine and Primary Care, 13(12), 5604–5608. https://doi.org/10.4103/jfmpc.jfmpc_696_24
Pawar, B. S. (2024). Theory Building for Hypothesis Specification in Organizational Studies (2nd edn). Routledge India. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781003506744
PwC. (2022). Sustainable fashion: Global perspectives. PwC London. https://www.pwc.nl/en/insights-and-publications/services-and-industries/retail-and-consumer-goods/future-proofing-sustainable-fashion-via-digitalisation-and-trans.html
Ragab, A., Al-Gizawy, A., Al-Minyawi, O., Hassabo, A., & Mahmoud, M. (2024). Environmental Impact of Clothing Manufacturing and the Fashion Industry. Journal of Textiles, Coloration and Polymer Science, 0(0), 0–0. https://doi.org/10.21608/jtcps.2024.259253.1298
Remy, N., Speelman, E., & Swartz, S. (2016). Style that’s sustainable: A new fast-fashion formula | McKinsey. https://www.mckinsey.com/capabilities/sustainability/our-insights/style-thats-sustainable-a-new-fast-fashion-formula
Rozenkowska, K. (2023). Theory of planned behavior in consumer behavior research: A systematic literature review. International Journal of Consumer Studies, 47(6), 2670–2700. https://doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12970
Saka, R. O., Osademe, G. C., & Ononokpono, N. J. (2023). Technopreneurship and Business Performance of Ride-Hailing Firms in Lagos State. International Journal of Research and Innovation in Social Science, 7(4), 1367–1383. https://EconPapers.repec.org/RePEc:bcp:journl:v:7:y:2023:i:4:p:1367-1383
Saunders, M., Lewis, P., & Thornhill, A. (2019). Research methods for business students (8th edn). Pearson Education.
Senooane, B. C. & Chabata, T. T., (2026). Understanding Consumer Value Dimensions in the Usage of Residential Solar Energy Among Generation Z. Journal of Consumer Sciences. 11(1), 1-26. DOI: https://doi.org/10.29244/jcs.11.1.1-26
Shedlock, A., & Feldstein, M. (2023). Cotton and recycling in sustainable fashion. Journal of Textile Science & Engineering, 13(2), 45–58.
Simon, D. (2023). Economic growth vs environmental goals in developing economies. Development Policy Review, 41(1), e12645.
Taherdoost, H. (2021). Data Collection Methods and Tools for Research; A Step-by-Step Guide to Choose Data Collection Technique for Academic and Business Research Projects. International Journal of Academic Research in Management (IJARM), 10(1), 10–38. https://hal.science/hal-03741847
UNECA. (2022). African Continental Free Trade Area and textile development (United Nations Economic Commission for Africa).
UNEP. (2025). Unsustainable Fashion and Textiles in Focus for International Day of Zero Waste 2025. United Nations Environment Programme. https://www.unep.org/news-and-stories/press-release/unsustainable-fashion-and-textiles-focus-international-day-zero
United Nations. (2023). Goal 12 | Department of Economic and Social Affairs. https://sdgs.un.org/goals/goal12
United Nations in South Africa. (2022). Common Country Analysis 2019—2020: Abridged Final Report, (pp. 1–60). https://southafrica.un.org/sites/default/files/2022-02/UN%20South%20Africa%20-%20ABRIDGED%20FINAL%20CCA%202019-2020%20%281%29.pdf
United Nations Statistics Division. (2023). SDG indicators: Responsible consumption and production. United Nations Environment Programme.
United States Environmental Protection Agency. (2023). Facts and Figures about Materials, Waste and Recycling [Collections and Lists]. https://www.epa.gov/facts-and-figures-about-materials-waste-and-recycling
Van Der Merwe, S., & Chabata, T.T. (2025). Contemporary Management of Generation Z'S Impulsive Fast Fashion Consumption: A Resistance to Slow Denim Fashion. Modern Management Review, 30(4), 43-58.
Wagner, S. M., Mangiaracina, R., & Perego, A. (2020). Assessing Quality Perception of Recycled Materials in Fashion Supply Chains. Resources, Conservation and Recycling, 162, 104984.
Wang, K., Ke, Y., & Sankaran, S. (2024). How Socially Sustainable Is the Institutional Care Environment in China: A Content Analysis of Media Reporting. Buildings, 14(9), 2953. https://doi.org/10.3390/buildings14092953
Wang, Y., Zhang, L., & Li, X. (2023). Mechanical and Aesthetic Performance of Recycled Cotton Blends: Challenges in Textile Quality and Consumer Acceptance. Journal of Textile Engineering and Fashion Technology, 9(2), 45–56.
Yin, R. K. (2022). Case study research and applications: Design and methods (7th edn). Sage.
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2026 Ms Paballo Mafokate, Dr Tatenda T. Chabata (Author)

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.